Basement window replacement - what is the right way?

[Matt Crowley]

One of my suites is going to need new basement windows in the spring. The downstairs tenants are experiencing drafts and it looks like the seals on the aluminum windows have failed as there is a fair bit of condensation. This property is a bi-level so there will be no trouble with window wells as windows are above final grade. (Property is in Edmonton)

As you can see from the pictures, we have vinyl siding down to pretty well the base of the windows / parging. The window casing is aluminum and is part of the window itself.

I have the tools and skill to replace the windows myself (background in framing) but having the time to do so is a bigger challenge. I will need to hire someone to complete this job in a timely manner. The suite is occupied and never vacant. I am looking for the optimal, economic repair. I own for the long term so I need permanent solutions, not looks-like-its-fixed.

Questions:
1. What window supplier would you suggest? In the past I have purchased All Weather Windows form Home Depot, but would you go direct to the supplier for an order like this? What supplier have you used?
2. I was thinking about asking one of my old framing friends to complete the work. If not, I was planning to go to Kijiji and look for someone with window installation experience. With the work shortage in Alberta, I think that finding skilled labour will not be too difficult.
3. Interior finishing: I will likely need to replace the window casings inside? I am not cutting windows larger so I am not anticipating anything more onerous. Am I missing anything? Obviously we need to spray-foam the cavity upon installation. And ensure the poly is correct.
4. Exterior finishing: I'm not sure what the right fix is here. Cutting back the siding or removing a couple of pieces for the window installation shouldn't be too tricky. How would you trim out the windows? Cultured stone might look nice (especially on the front) but would probably cost a couple hundred dollars. I'm not sure of the cost of the aluminum exterior finishes. I don't think I want to go with a painted wood either.
5. The basement windows have failed I believe. I think the upstairs windows could last another two - three years. Is there a good reason to wait?

Thanks

 

[RyP]

I used to tackle projects like this myself but like you got too busy to it on myself. I now use Luis from Andino glass (a referral from a friend) for all of my window jobs. He's done a mainfloor full bay window replacement in an occupied house and had it completed in less than a day. Also, his suppliers prices were far below anything I could find at even "factory direct" suppliers. I haven't used enough guys to say he's the best, but he's the first guy I'll call.

As for the exterior trim, we've used pvc trim board and it works well. It's easy to install and won't deteriorate, also it's paintable. Hope that helped.

 

[Sherilynn]

Andino Glass has done great work for us, especially on repairing/replacing parts of older windows.

For a whole house replacement, we usually use Durabuilt. We get great pricing from them, so I'm not sure how their regular prices compare. Reasons we use them:

• I like using the same company to both supply and install. That way if there is an issue I don't have 2 contractors fighting about whose fault it is.
• Their 'solar ban' windows don't look tinted, and the energy efficiency is amazing. In our personal residence, we have south west exposure so we ordered triple pane windows with a double layer of solar ban. The difference is unbelievable! Plus our windows don't have the ghastly green tint our neighbour's windows have.
• The installer we have had in the past (Steve) is top notch. Polite, professional, fast, easy to work with, and great quality work.
• After install, they have handled any issues in a timely manner.
• There is no extra charge for doing only a few windows, so you could do the basement this year and the upper suite another year.

Key considerations when choosing windows:

• Buying inserts that require capping is often more expensive than getting an "all in one" window.
• Capping requires caulking, which either must be painted or will soon look awful once dirt sticks to it.

 

[kfort]

3. Interior finishing: I will likely need to replace the window casings inside? I am not cutting windows larger so I am not anticipating anything more onerous. Am I missing anything? Obviously we need to spray-foam the cavity upon installation. And ensure the poly is correct.
4. Exterior finishing: I'm not sure what the right fix is here. Cutting back the siding or removing a couple of pieces for the window installation shouldn't be too tricky. How would you trim out the windows? Cultured stone might look nice (especially on the front) but would probably cost a couple hundred dollars. I'm not sure of the cost of the aluminum exterior finishes. I don't think I

In the past, I've popped the old window out & purchased a non custom size slightly smaller than the frame(if you can keep it)/ rough opening. If wider trim is needed (in or out) I've often grabbed some mdf (I can't necessarily advise this, but I've done it and if done correctly it will be fine) in say 4" width and simply primed the back and painted all sides with minimum 2 coats exterior trim paint. Don't forget to also paint the mitre cuts too. I then caulked the edges well (the previous comment about painting caulking is bang on) and simply monitored every spring/ fall to see if it needs painting.

4" wide casing is pricy. But I'm also a bit on the frugal side.

A bit better option if you've got access to a table saw is to grab some 1 side sanded ply and strip it to 4" (not across the grain) then prime/ paint. From 6' away you won't even see the edge to be able to identify it as ply, especially after you caulk.

...Or just buy 4" casing and save an hour on the table saw!

Come to think of it, I pinched pennies pretty darn hard my first couple years.

Edit: I would never use ply inside. Too often you're closer than 6' and for an extended period of time, it'd look like crap.

 

[Matt Crowley]

^ I'm also a bit on the frugal side too Kristopher. Thanks. So I am guessing that you used some kind of paper or tar product to seal the window on the exterior before using the MDF? It is an interesting fix but I'll probably tin the exterior trim or use a composite product. You are pretty much stuck putting on some sort of trim if you are taking out an old window, putting in a slightly smaller, and working with existing siding.

Andino Glass has done great work for us, especially on repairing/replacing parts of older windows.

Do you have a contact number please?

• Buying inserts that require capping is often more expensive than getting an "all in one" window.

This doesn't make sense to me. My understanding is that an "insert" is inserted into the existing window frame. The problem with inserts is that you are stuck with the old window frame. A replacement window removes the old window and frame. This always requires interior and exterior finishing. I wasn't considering an insert because the frames are quite old. Did I misunderstand something here? An insert doesn't need capping, it needs to be sealed to its connection on the existing window...it uses the original capping of the existing frame.

Maybe someone has had good luck with inserts?

As for the exterior trim, we've used pvc trim board and it works well. It's easy to install and won't deteriorate, also it's paintable. Hope that helped.

Thanks. Yes, I've seen this product around and I like the look of it. It is finished all in one too which is a nice bonus.

 

[kfort]

Not sure I fully follow the paper/ tar question. We popped window out, grabbed one ~1/2" smaller, popped it in, spray foamed it, let it dry, tuck tape (or aluminum take actually works well too) for draft prevention, trimmed it with the modified (fully painted) mdf baseboard, caulked it, done. Few shims to make it nice n level without over shimming so it wouldn't open easily.

I just measured from edge of window to where the old casing lined up to decide on the width of trim.

Inside to make it look purdy I used a 8" wide melamine plank. Cut it and caulked the joints to make it look like one sealed unit.

I have a couple done in similar way but with plastic planks. Worked well also!

 

[Matt Crowley]

Okay right on. Aluminum? What does that look like?

Shims are the way you need to do it if you are installing the window solo but you don't need them if you have a second guy and get the bottom installed correctly first.

On new home construction, there is usually 2 ways for sealing a window. One is to use a cut roll of Tyvek paper (6" - 10") and staple it around the window. (On a reno window you would pull the paper underneath the siding back over the Tyvek trim around the window once completed). The other option is to use a sticky roll of black tar tape that is around 8"wide. It is a lot more expensive but there is no question that it creates a better seal. Coventry is one builder in Edmonton that was picky about their window installations and insisted this really annoying black acoustical sealant be placed on all windows before placement. It seemed to make for a really good seal however.

 

[kfort]

Yeah, we tucked some Tyvek around the frame as best we could. Had to replace one side of the frame and did so with treated wood. Aluminum siding made it a bit tougher to fiddle with vs vinyl. If I remember correctly we added a bead of tar on the backside of the ~6" Tyvek strips to help seal. Certainly easier to do at the build stage but nothing someone with handy skills can't do as a replacement. Probably your biggest concern would be getting too rammy taking the old one out and ending up with broken glass and stitches.

 

[5har0n]

Inserts reduce the size of the window glass. Not a great thing in a basement suite. A darker basement suite is less appealing.

 

[Matt Crowley]

^ Thanks. Yes, I don't hear any support for the insert replacement. It sounds like it is more of a fix for someone trying to fix and flip a house to make it look pretty than for someone going to own it for the long term.

 

[James Benson]

I would buy a vinyl window, they have the best thermal breaks and require the least amount of maintenance over wood and metal. Then cut back the siding a little less than the width of the trim you will be using, keeping in mind the gap around the window. ( this will take some good layout skills, as you really don't want to over cut, it's best to cut 1/2" less than you need at this point). Use blue skin on the bottom, wrapping up the sides by at least 6". Wrap tar paper around the top and sides so that the higher pieces overlap the lower pieces (so water can't get behind the paper). Install the window. Take a pice of trim (I usually use smart trim) put it against the window and trace the out side edge, then cut the siding back again. You will need to cut the top a little bit further back the incorporate your flashing. The siding should be at least 1/8" above the flashing to create a capillary break. Install flashing above the window, so the top goes behind the hose wrap. Seal your tar paper to the existing house wrap and your window with tuck tape ( you will need to get behind the siding a little with the tape) then Install flashing under the siding at the top, so that it is behind the building wrap again and will sit above your exterior trim (double flashing). Make sure to dam up the ends of the top piece of flashing. (You may need to cut a little notch in the siting for the dam to go in). cut your trim and Make sure all sides and ends are PRIMED not just painted (primer is the sealant, paint only sits on top and will not protect from water for more than a few years). Install the trim, Paint the trim, then seal with 100% waterproof silicone. ( if you get paintable silicone then you can reverse those two steps, just make sure it's 100% waterproof). On the inside, fill the gaps with spray foam (don't just stuff fibreglass insulation in there, it does not stop airflow. If you've ever pulled old fibreglass insulation out of a window, you've probably seen that it has gone black. This is actually dirt and dust that has accumulated over the years from the air getting through. This can cause condensation and drafts, and may actually be the cause of the issue you are currently having). Now cut some MDF for the sill. Again, prime all sides and ends, then install so the reveal is the same all the way around the window (this will take some shimming most likely). Now trim out the inside, caulk, paint, go have a beer [emoji12]

 

[Matt Crowley]

^ Thanks so much for the detailed description James. I'm getting some pricing done this week for the installation. There are some very competitive offers I need to evaluate before deciding if I want to take this on myself.

Awesome description though thanks

 

[James Benson]

^ no problem sweet zone [emoji4]

 

[Dustin Racine]

Have used Cambridge windows and have always been happy with them. Had pricing from three different window manufacturers (dura-built, all-weather, and Cambridge) on a new home. Cambridge was the best priced by a substantial margin.